编者按
2020年起,为促进中华优秀传统文化的国内传播与国际化译述,上海外国语大学英语学院打造大型实践活动“记忆的味道”,追寻五湖四海的记忆,讲述文化背后的故事。上外英院传统文化志愿服务队于每年寒暑假分赴祖国七大方言区,聚焦非遗及传统文化进行实践与探索。活动围绕家乡年俗、红色文化、手工游艺、音乐舞蹈、二十四节气、非遗文化等中华优秀传统文化进行实践,取得丰硕成果,曾获得“挑战杯”“互联网+”“致远计划”社会实践大赛等国家级、市级、校级奖项。本季“记忆的味道”聚焦非遗美食,将推出双语视频、双语推送讲述美食中的非遗文化,感悟非遗传承背后的动人故事,推动中华优秀传统文化的国内外传播。
客家方言区
客家,一个被称为“客”,又以“客”自称的汉族民系,是华夏民族中重要而又特别的组成成分。(Hakka, a Chinese Han subgroup whose Chinese characters literally mean “guest families.” They used to be called so to be distinguished from the local residents. Over time, they have adopted this term as their self-designation. Hakka is an important and distinctive component within the Chinese nation.)如今,客家人口数量近一亿人,分布在全球70多个国家和地区。(At present, the Hakka population is close to 100 million, living in over 70 countries in the world.)
梅州客家,位于广东省东北部,是广东客家族群中最具代表性和影响力的一个分支。在该地区,有一种“娘酒文化”(Hakka Mother Wine)传承千年,根植于每个客家人心中。(Meizhou Hakka, living in the northeast of Guangdong province, is the most representative and influential sub-branch of Guangdong Hakka ethnic group. In this region, Mother Wine Culture with thousands of years of history behind it, is deeply rooted in all Hakka people. )
客家方言区分布图
摘自《中国语言地图集第2版汉语方言卷》
本期“记忆的味道”让我们走进梅州客家娘酒,品味娘酒之甘甜,领悟酒液里流淌的文化密码。
史载:“其味香芬甜美,色泽温赤,饮之通天地之灵气,活经络之神脉。”客家娘酒,又称老酒,因酿造和食效与客家妇女紧密联系而得名。(Hakka Mother Wine, also known as Hakka Yellow Rice Wine, is named for its close association with Hakka women in the brewing and dietary process.)
娘酒以糯米为主要原料,通过发酵、压榨、澄清、窖藏等一系列程序制作而成。(Glutinous rice is the main raw material of Mother Wine, which is produced after being fermentated, pressed, cleared up and cellared.)而其中最后一道程序就是炙酒,也是最重要的一道程序。(The last and also the most important step of the whole process is roasting.) 糯米发酵出来的酒经过禾草燃烧高温火炙,味道更加醇厚且有利于保存。(After being roasted by the burning straw, the wine tastes mellow and can be better preserved.)
炙酒——娘酒酿造工序的关键
追本溯源
据传,客家娘酒起初并不是用来招待客人,而是为了让客家人更好地适应潮湿的气候。在迁徙的过程中,客家先民酿造娘酒温补身体,驱走疲劳。(Originally, Hakka Mother Wine was not intended to entertain the guests but to help the Hakka people better adapt to the humid climate. During their migration to the south, the ancestors of Hakka drank the Mother Wine to warm and nourish their body and to dispel the fatigue.) “嫩寒锁梦因春冷,芳气袭人是酒香。”每一滴娘酒都蕴含着客家人千年的智慧。(“The coldness of spring has imprisoned the soft buds in a wintry dream; The fragrance of wine has intoxicated the beholder with imagined flower-scents.” Every drop of Hakka Mother Wine embodies the thousand-year wisdom of the Hakka people.)
传承发展
如今的娘酒在客家文化上占据一席之地。2016年平远八尺娘酒酿造技艺被列入梅州市市级非物质文化遗产保护名录。(Pingyuan Bachi Mother Wine brewing technique was added to Meizhou municipal-level intangible cultural heritage list in 2016.) 在客家地区有“酿酒做豆腐,无人敢称老师傅” (“No one dares to claim master craftsman when it comes to brewing wine or making tofu.”) 的说法。不过,在梅州,梅县客家娘酒酿造技艺传承人温凤珠却能称得上名副其实的老师傅。(However, Wen Fengzhu, the Meixian Hakka Mother Wine brewing technique inheritor, is an old master in a true sense.) 从入行以来,温老师几十年如一日地酿好每一坛酒。(Since entering the industry, Master Wen has committed herself to making good wine for several decades.) 同时,对于有兴趣学习传统酿酒工艺的年轻人,温老师都会倾囊相授。(Moreover, Master Wen would pass on her experiences without reservation to the young people who are interested in learning the traditional brewing technique.) 据统计,一年下来,温老师要卖出近一两万斤的娘酒。温老师将情怀酿进酒里,将客家文化酿进酒里,始终以助力娘酒“走出去”为使命。(Wen infuses her feelings into the wine, infuses Hakka culture into the wine, and has always considered it her mission to assist Hakka Mother Wine in “going global.”)
梅县客家娘酒酿造技艺传承人温凤珠酿制娘酒
精神寄托
客家娘酒,是客家人必不可少的调味酒。(Hakka Mother Wine is an indispensable seasoning for the Hakka people.)“娘酒炒鸡”“娘酒焖羊肉”“娘酒清炖鲫鱼”等美味与营养兼得的膳食,几乎是家家户户的拿手好菜。(Such popular home-made dishes as stir-fried chicken, braised mutton and stewed crucian carp, to name just a few, are all cooked with mother wine, which are both delicious and nutritious.) 同时娘酒酒精度数低,还含有人体所必需的十八种氨基酸,具有强身健体,延年益寿的功效。(Because of its low alcohol content and the 18 essential amino acids it contains, Mother Wine is known for its effect of strengthening health and prolonging life.)
客家娘酒,是千千万万客家人的年夜酒。(Hakka Mother Wine is the choice of millions of Hakka people to drink on Chinese New Year’s Eve.) 新春佳节,阖家团圆之际,客家人欢聚畅饮娘酒。金黄的色泽、浓郁的香气,配着欢声笑语,载满了客家人一整年的汗水以及对下一年的美好祝福。(When Hakka folks gather together during the Spring Festival, they toast to each other and drink Hakka Mother Wine to reward themselves for a whole year of hard work and to express their best wishes for the coming year.)
客家娘酒,是一代代客家人的母亲酒。(Hakka Mother Wine, as the name suggests, is the wine of Hakka mothers for generations.)据说客家女性怀孕之后,吃的补品是娘酒煮鸡蛋和娘酒炖鸡,这些滋补品不仅可以帮助产妇避风寒湿气,通经活血,还包含着客家母亲对女儿、儿媳满满的关怀。(Hakka mothers’ care for their daughters and daughters-in-law.)
客家人逢年过节用大瓷碗畅饮娘酒
客家精神代代传,娘酒文化日日新。(The Hakka spirit is passed down from generation to generation, while the Hakka Mother Wine culture is full of new vitality.)在政府、社会和非遗传承人的努力下,客家娘酒不断迸发出新的魅力。客家文化随着酒的流淌而传承,世世代代,历久弥新,永不消磨。(With the joint efforts of the government, society and the inheritors of intangible cultural heritage, Hakka Mother Wine culture is rejuvenated. Hakka culture, just as the Mother Wine passed down from generation to generation, it is timeless and never wears away. )
本季“记忆的味道”将非遗美食与文创融合,推出非遗美食系列徽章和贴纸,同学们可以在后续线下活动中获得,敬请期待。
客家娘酒文创(设计图)
客家娘酒以糯米为原材料,酿就后盛装在酒瓮中窖藏,是客家每家每户必不可少的母亲酒。
参考资料:
[1] 石壁传奇|宁化客家酒酿的故事
https://m.sohu.com/a/376307359_196714/?pvid=000115_3w_a&strategyid=00014
[2] DUDU猫说节气之冬至:日照数九冬至天,清霜风高未辞岁
https://view.inews.qq.com/k/20221222A01BDB00?no-redirect=1&web_channel=wap&openApp=false
[3] 非遗文化(一) | 客家娘酒:匠心为传承,酒香飘万家_南方plus_南方+
https://static.nfapp.southcn.com/content/201911/26/c2838896.html
[4] 客家文化 | 娘酒,一代代客家人的母亲酒。
https://zhuanlan.zhihu.com/p/138947287
[5] PCbaby-月子米酒水是什么意思
https://m.pcbaby.com.cn/x/yycs/2005/4921464.html
[6] 关于批准并公布广东省第三批省级非物质文化遗产名录的通知.
http://www.gd.gov.cn/gkmlpt/content/0/138/mpost_138636.html#7
[7] 地道美味!客家人用娘酒做出多种美食!每一种都让人流口水!
https://baijiahao.baidu.com/s?id=1694892262478025285&wfr=spider&for=pc
[8] 王球堂.“客家娘酒”今更俏[J].岭南文史,1993,(4): 65
[9] 梅州市人民政府关于批准并公布梅州市第七批市级非物质文化遗产代表性项目名录的通知
https://www.meizhou.gov.cn/zwgk/fggw/szfwj/content/mpost_584403.html
[10] 【客家非遗】匠心为传承 酒香飘万家 —梅县客家娘酒酿造技艺代表性传承人温凤珠
https://www.sohu.com/a/159684892_99897034
[11] Estela.一杯娘酒传千年:哪里有客家人,哪里就有客家娘酒[J].葡萄酒,2021,(2): 74-77
翻译参考资料:
[1] 客家人为何叫做客家人?他们从何而来?
https://baijiahao.baidu.com/s?id=1649657398243988469&wfr=spider&for=pc
[2]【中英双语】客家娘酒 流传千年
http://k.sina.com.cn/article_5787187353_v158f1789902001kt67.html
[3] Do you know these liquors in Guangdong? 喝过这么多酒,竟不知广东这些陈年好酒?
https://www.sohu.com/a/150568068_784458
[4]《红楼梦》英译本 by David Hawkes
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